Amongst the many incredible traditional aspects of Assamese Culture, one of the most beautiful aesthetically alluring tangible assets of this beautiful culture are its clothing and accessories- the traditional Muga Silk clothes and the beautiful pieces of traditional Assamese jewellery. The history of Assamese Traditional Jewellery dates back to medieval India and the Ahom Kingdom that maintained its sovereignty for 600 hundred years in Assam from 1228 to 1826. During the royal times, the Assamese traditional jewellery were made from various metals and materials such gold, silver, copper, brass, amber as well as rhinoceros’ horns and ivory and precious gems, pearl, ruby and diamonds.
These jewellery are mostly made out of silver and gold. The traditional Assamese jewellery made out of silver are covered with thin gold foil or leaf gold and decorated with beautiful gemstones, mina and ruby. Unlike other gold jewellery, the unique beauty of these traditional jewellery lies in its slightly dull but premium royal shade of gold that develops over time.
These handmade traditional jewellery are unique to the state of Assam and are inspired by nature, flora and fauna, birds, animals, musical instruments from Assam. All these jewellery pieces have stories behind the designs and have wonderful names such as- Loka Paro (twin pigeons placed together), Xensorai (the hawk), Thuria (star-shaped), Junbiri (Half-moon) and like few of the pieces among many other beautiful pieces of traditional Assamese jewellery mentioned below.
Loka Paro
During the royal times of Ahom Kingdom, Loka Paro was worn by dignitaries of the dynasty. This piece of jewellery shows two identical twin birds (in Assamese “Paro” means pigeon), positioned back to back. This might be in gold ingots, rubies, mina, or flush natural enamel coating.
Dug-Dugi
This ancient Assamese decorative set called Dug-Dugi – a spade-shaped jewellery set. The design is used in rings, pendants as well as earrings.
Junbiri
“Jun” in Assamese means the Moon. This half-moon shaped piece of Assamese traditional jewellery Junbiri can be customized and embellished with beautiful gems and many variations.
Kerumoni
Kerumoni is very popular and has a royal look. The design is mostly used in earrings and necklace pendants. Kerumoni has two parts – the pendant with one side wider than the other side with a small round gap (“Keru” in Assamese) in it. While the rest of the necklace is made from pearls and similar beads (“Moni” in Assamese).Hence the name Kerumoni.
Galpata
Galpata, an Assamese version of choker, is a close-fitting necklace worn around the neck. It usually comes in many different floral designs.
Jethi Pota
Inspired by Assamese orchid ‘Kopou phool’ and dragons, this beautiful looking traditional Assamese jewellery Jethi Pota consists chain of royal colored embellishments.
Japi
This design is inspired by traditional Assamese hat ‘Japi’, a circular conical hat. Japi is used in necklace, earrings and finger rings.
Gam kharu
Gam Kharu are broad bracelets that can be clasped around wrists are embellished with beautiful floral decorations. It is worn on special occasions like Assamese festival Bihu and other special occasions like marriage. One of the favourite pieces of jewellery for women. During the royal ages of Ahom Kingdom, men used to wear Gam kharu made of silver and gold.
Muthi kharu
In Assamese ‘Muthi’ means a fist. Muthi kharu which resembles to a fist, gives a royal look to your style.
Apart from these, there are many variations and customizations are available. Assamese Traditional Jewellery by Prajapati offers you a wide variety of traditional and modern Assamese jewellery collections.